Monday, October 26, 2009

Day 28: Oct 4

-Saltenas for breakfast. Yum.
-Internet
-3 hour bus ride from Sorata: stopped at Lake Titicaca for fresh trout for lunch
Sorata is a pretty city up on a valley and a gorgeous mountain called Illampu looks over it.-Arrived at program house (Molly fell into a ditch and broke her leg). The program house is a house that the program owns and the instructor’s stay here. The house is really pretty and surrounded by mountains, rivers, flowers, and trees and has a bonfire pit and a couple swings. We had a bonfire and roasted marshmallows—very pretty night under the stars. A couple of us decided to sleep outside in the yard

Day 27: Oct 3 (La Paz)

We all spent the day in La Paz before Sorata. I did the typical La Paz things:
-Ate amazing saltenas
-Internet
-Shopped
-Dinner (fantastic), attempted to go to a casino, and discoteca!

Day 26: October 2

I woke up early to pack. My siblings were getting ready to leave for school. As they were leaving I gave them some cookies. I tried giving Remedius a hug but she was so shy that she put her head down and scrunched her soldiers in. I said goodbye to Arturo and Ana but couldn’t find Hugo. He darted out of the kitchen trying to avoid me but I ran after him calling his name. I finally caught up to him to find tears running down his cheeks. I tried telling him it was going to be OK but he couldn’t really understand. Instead, I gave him a fist pound and started singing our goal song “olay, olay, olay, olay.” He gave me a smile and I told him to keep scoring. We pounded one more time before he turned around and started heading back up the street. It was so sad but at the same time I was glad to know I made an impact in his life and he had fun. I went back into the kitchen and had some soup and took pictures with my family. Helen then came to my door and it was time to say goodbye. I wanted to tell them how much I enjoyed my stay and how great they were but I knew they wouldn’t understand. Instead, I shook their hands and said thank you. There was so much more I wanted to say but couldn’t.
Helen and I met the rest of the group at the bottom of the hill and then split up according to bus rides. Not everyone could fit so one group was going to walk 2 hours to the bus station and go to the hot springs before and the other group was going to go straight to La Paz. I was in the group that walked and went to the hot springs. It was a very pretty day so I was happy walking and really glad that we were going to the hot springs because I hadn’t showered in a long time. We got to the hot springs after a nice 2 hour walk but they weren’t exactly what I expected…. or IT wasn’t exactly what I expected. We walked down to find a pool filled with hot green water. I didn’t really care at that point though because it was dirty and hadn’t had a warm shower in forever. We stayed at the hot spring for a while and then walked into town for lunch. The bus left at 4:00 and was awful. It was an 8-hour bus ride with people standing, hovering over me in the isles and I was so hot. I also lost my hat and walking stick : ( We FINALLY arrived in La Paz after a very long ride. All of us were really hungry so at like 1:00am we all went to Mega Burger and had a Bolivian fast food HAMburger…it was literally a hamburger because they put ham on it. There were hilarious 90’s music videos playing also it was great. Walked back around the corner and slept really well.

Day 25: October 1 (Kaata Day 2)

I slept really well last night on just straw and ship skin. I woke up around 8 and joined my family kitchen room. I was given coffee and popcorn kernel type things. I sat there with little conversation, slowly sipping my delicious coffee. When I put on my clothes this morning and stepped into the room, I felt out of place for the first time the whole trip. I was just so different. I don’t know why at this particular moment I first felt this way; maybe it was the language barrier or maybe the huge difference in lifestyle. Despite feeling a bit self-conscious from all the curious glares, I felt welcomed and happy to be there. After finishing my coffee I walked Hugo and Ana to school. They picked up friends along they way and together they giggled, probably at my clothes or how different I was. We walked down the gorgeous hill that overlooked the valley and rest of the town. In all different directions, you could see kids walking down towards the school. I ran into Becky and her sister as well. We finally got down to the school a little past 9:00 when school started but a bunch of the kids didn’t go in. Becky and I tried asking why they weren’t going in but we didn’t get much of a response—more of a cold shoulder. I decided to leave despite not entering the school; I wanted to get back to help my mom around the house.
When I got home I was served more soup and potatoes. My mom and Edwin were sitting in kitchen but my dad had left for the fields. After Edwin left, the only Spanish speaker, my mom and I sat in silence. I did the dishes once I finished eating and then sat reading outside my room. My mom then came outside and started to pile hay. I sat and watched her for a little until she called me over with a hand gesture. I stood behind her and without words she slowly instructed me how to disperse the straw. I attempted…we laughed. She then took my wrist and shook it back and forth showing me the proper movement. Nodding her head, she told me to try once more. Stroking back and forth, I followed her every movement. Soon enough we were working synchronized side by side. We shared smiles, but very little words. It is weird how close I felt to her even though we barely spoke. Once we were done with the straw, we headed for the kitchen. I attempted to peel potatoes but yet again I needed my mom’s help. She laughed and helped me through the process… I didn’t pick it up as easily as I did the straw! It took forever for me to peel just one but my mom could peel one in 10 seconds. We ended up making papas fritas, eggs, and rice and once my siblings returned from lunch we all ate together; it was delicious. I used to not like eggs but now I love them! After lunch we went to the store to get some cookies. When we got back we played some soccer in the plaza until the weather started to turn. It started to storm, so I went to my room and read as I listened to the raindrops hit the tin roof—so relaxing (I ended up falling asleep for a little). When I woke up I got some tea and popcorn. I had a group meeting then came back home and had soup for dinner and played chess with my siblings. They were SO good at chess!
Later that night around 9:00 we all gathered at the instructors house for a Quechua ceremony. We all sat around the edge of the room with two Kayawallas (traditional Quecha healers) in the middle. They were setting up seashells with different ornaments in them while smoking and drinking in between. It was really slow and boring at first but then we got to participate by putting more objects into the seashells; I added some llama fat. Once the seashells were filled the Kayawallas took a guinea pig out of a bag, held it up, and cut open its throat for a sacrifice. It was really graphic but I would later slay a pig and lamb so now it seems like nothing. The sacrifice was sad though because the guinea pig was squealing and squirming until the neck was snapped off.
The Kayawallas then ripped open the chest and you could still see the heart beating. They then examined the intestines in order to read our future. Like the other Kayawalla, they said that our trip will go as expected. Once the sacrifice was over we all got a shell and went outside and stood in a circle. Everyone was completely silent, waiting for the Kaywalla to come around and put his hands over our head while chanting a prayer. We were supposed to think of a good journey, home, and the Pacha Mamma as his hands were over our head. It was a very cool and powerful moment. After the Kayawalla’s started a fire next to the guinea pig grave. We dumped the contents of our shells into the fire and then took the pig blood in the cup and sprayed some into the fire. When we sprayed it into the fire we had to think of a good journey and thank Pacha Mama. Right after I sprayed blood into the fire, I went to the other side of the circle and sprayed some blood towards the mountains thinking of home and a safe journey. We had one last circle then ended the ceremony. It was a very cool experience and I felt so alive afterwards.

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Day 24: Sep 30 (Kaata Day 1)
Woke up and packed-Breakfast, health check in, group meeting about Apolobamba trek (reflections, review etc.)-We were going to a Quechuan town called Kaata and it was across the valley so we had to walk 1 hour down and 1 hour back up the valley. If a bird traveled there it would only take 20 minute but we had to go up and back down. The hike was really pretty though and we had lunch by a river.-Arrived in Kaata and got our host families. I loved my Kaata host family. I had a 20-year-old brother Edwin, Mom and Dad, 15-year-old brother, 13-year-old sister, 11-year-old sister, and an 8-year-old brother. The family was sooo cute and so shy at first. I first got into the house and the parents weren’t there. I set my bag down on the “bed” in a little adobe hut. The “kitchen,” or clay fire hole, was in the same room and I soon started to hear little squeaks. I looked around to find guinea pigs running all over the floor, kittens lying next to their mom, and skeletons of burned animals hanging from the ceilings. I was so shocked and at first grossed out. I wrote in my diary “I am sitting in my home stay room and it is far from what I expected. Guinea pigs are running around, cats are huddled in the corner guarding their kittens, and my 13 year-old-sister is cooking dinner in a tiny pot over a stone fire. Communication is limited to the fact Spanish is both our second language. My host brother is outside making a table and the rest of my family is MIA—and I can’t figure out where they are. Skeletons of some animals are hanging above the fire and poo sits near the stone. Squeals of the guinea pigs are below and all around me. The air is full of some. The bed is just wood, straw, and some blankets. I feel gross but at the same time I feel safe and welcomed. I hate cats and I hate guinea pigs but I don’t seem to mind it. The smiles of hospitality from my family over write everything else. It is an experience that is for sure.” It was so different from anything I’ve seen. I was distracted from it all though by the hospitality and kindness of my family. Soon it didn’t even bother me. Edwin, my 20-year-old brother, was the only one who could really speak Spanish—everyone else spoke only Quechuan. The rest of my family came home and poured into the room I was sitting in. We all sat around and had some homemade bread and tea. Communicating was extremely hard because we both didn’t speak Spanish very well. They talked among themselves and every once and a while I heard gringo so I knew they were talking about me. We sat in the room, radio on, animals chirping, and pan frying for a little longer before we decided to go outside. We kicked the ball around when more kids showed up at our door. We went to the “plaza” to play. Kids from ages 7-20 played in the fog under these two street lights. There were pile of rocks for the goals, poo on the field, smiles on every ones faces, and, of course, the radio blasting the same songs. I had so much fun. I especially liked this home stay because we were only there second stay, so they were so interested in me. They were all really shy but eventually started to warm up and giggle a lot. After soccer we came back into that main room and had some soup and potatoes for dinner. I ate my first bowl and was really content and then my mom filled it up again…omg so much soup! I sat there for a while until my dad picked up my backpack and showed me to another “room.” He pushed some potatoes and clothes out of the way revealing a straw platform. He set my backpack down and put sheep skin over the straw and then patted it gesturing to me to sit. At that point I realized I wouldn’t be sleeping with the animals but instead heaps of potatoes. I pretty much slept in their storage room but didn’t mind it at all. I got my sleeping bag out and fell right to sleep. I was so happy and excited for the next day of my home stay.

Day 23: Sept 29
Woke up and it was COLD!! Had scrambled eggs for breakfast then started hiking in the fog. We started the hike uphill and it was just so hard, especially doing it first thing in the morning. Finally we made it to the last pass and took our final “pass” picture. We headed down for 2 hours; the weather was only decent (foggy and misty). We walked down and out of the clouds passing waterfalls, creeks, and made our way into stone made villages. In one of the villages we stopped and had lunch and a local indigenous woman showed us some of her textiles. I bought a bracelet that says “recuerdo” or remember. After lunch we crossed a pretty creek and started to leave the tiny village. He heated debate started between some group members about development in Bolivia and US involvement. IT was foggy the rest of the hike and there wasn’t much to see. 2 hours had passed until we reached another town. We started to walk into the center and it seemed like a ghost town due to the fog. Also, no one was really out walking because it was a farming community so everyone was still on their fields. We visited the newly built hospital that was a mix of the indigenous and western practices. We talked with a Kayawalla, an indigenous doctor who uses medicinal plants, as well as western doctor. It was really cool because we got to learn more about medicinal plants (pretty sure they used dandelions for like stomach aches haha). When the tour was done we walked 20 minutes to a lodge where we spent the night. I was the cook and made some tomato soup with Molly and Sam. The Kayawalla ate dinner with us and answered some of our questions. Also, he read coca leaves for us that are similar to fortune telling but a lot cooler and “religious.” He said that our trip will go really well and there “won’t be any surprises.” Anne later did her Shatakwa and it was interesting—she is soo artistic and talented! She played songs on the guitar that she made, read slam poetry, and also sang a classical French song that was really pretty. When we were about to go to bed Chris and Sam barged into the room claiming they were about to have a water chugging contest. It was the funniest thing I had ever seen. Chris won by a long shot but Sam’s face was absolutely priceless. After that we finally got to go to bed.

Day 22: Sept 28
Woke up and had oatmeal. Emily didn’t feel well the night before and puked a couple times so when we started to hike I helped set a slow pace. I knew how it felt feeling sick hiking a mountain. We passed some mining towns on trek up to the pass. We also heard more ice cracking on the glaciers, which was cool. We got to the top and had to traverse down for two hours. The traverse was really cool and reminded me of a ski run at Snowbird (a ski resort). It was rocky and zigzagged down. Some people said it reminded them of Mordor, from Lord Of The Rings because it was foggy out, rocks were sliding, and it was just very eerie. After two hours of the misty, foggy hike down we had lunch. After lunch we hiked back up the other side of the valley for 2 hours. We made it to our campsite and there was poo literally EVERYWHERE. We had to move poo out of the way in order to find a spot for our tents. Again, we played cards until dinner. Dinner that night was veggies and wheat. Chris, John, Sophia and I made popcorn after dinner and played more cards. I didn’t sleep so well that night because it was pretty cold and rainy.

Day 21: 9/27 (Apolobamba Day 3)
I had a really good breakfast this morning thanks to Emily and Molly who love cooking. I had home fries, oatmeal with banana, and scrambled eggs. We packed up and had our group meeting. Today I my job was the lover that meant I had to make sure everyone was in high spirits and if not, I gave them a hug. We started hiking and the terrain was very steep—so hard to do in the morning! The weather was really nice in the morning also; sun was out and a good temperature. As we kept walking the sun turned into clouds and it slowly started to snow. Luckily, it wasn’t that cold. We went through bofidal, a type of terrain that somewhat resembles a marsh, and it was gorgeous. It was all green with some flowers and puddles full of water. The snow and fog cleared up literally right as we go to a huge glacier and it’s lake in front of it. The water was a spectacular aqua color and the snow capped mountain sat right behind it. It was the perfect place to have lunch! We sat down for lunch right next to the lake and had our typical Salome, peanut butter, avocado, tuna, mustard and crackers. We took a group picture then headed up the 16,000 ft pass that was the highest one we went up. I felt great! After Tunari, which was 17,000ft, I was so scared I was going to get sick again at that elevation. Instead, I cruised right up it and did so well! I was so happy. It was funny though because it didn’t snow while we were eating lunch but right when we started hiking again the snow picked up. It was steep climb and once we reached the top the snow stopped. The view was really pretty; you could see both sides. There were a lot of snow capped mountains and Bofidals. We chilled at the top for a while and had some snacks then headed back down. Unfortunately, Sophia wasn’t feeling that well so I walked slowly with her down. We got to the campsite after about 1 hour downhill. The site was pretty with the glaciers right next to us (you could hear the ice cracking). It was really cold at this point so Chris and I quickly set up a tent for Sophia to get in because she still felt crummy. I also help set up this other tent that was the biggest pain in the butt. You had to make sure the rain cover didn’t hit the inner net layer because then it was useless and rain would pour in. We couldn’t get them to not hit and the tent got really wet…I ended up having to sleep in it and dry it out. So annoying. We played cards (a huge game of kemps=really fun), and drank hot chocolate until dinner. Dinner was spaghetti carbanara and it was really good; dessert was pudding. After dinner we played the Dream Game again. We played for a while until I found out that I was making up the dream the whole time---it was all a trick! It was really funny though. We also had the best popcorn that Maro and I made.

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Quick Update!

Sorata
Hi Everyone! Sorry about the delayed updates. I have a lot to write but live so far away/the internet is slow and expensive. Right now I am in Sorata living with a homestay family. I am also taking 4 hours of Spanish classes 5 days a week, volunteering in two schools, and am taking a Andes history course. The group was split into two different towns of Sorata. Chris, Annie, Sam, Becky and I are in the more rural town of Tutuacaha. We live about 45 minutes away from the main plaza of Sorata and about 30 min away from the Program House (a house that Dragons owns, the instructors sleep in, and where our spanish classes are held). It definatly is a great workout walking back and forth, up and down hills, every day. My home stay family is good. I have: a mom Angelica, a dad who is always working in the mines, a 22 year old sister Lurdes, 19 year old cousin Llovana, 15 year old sister Rosemary, 14 year old brother Juan Carlos, 13 year old sister Gina, 9 year old brother Jose, and a 1 year old cousin Nardi. It is definatly a full house but it is really fun! Since I live in a small rural community just outside the main city of Sorata, I am very close to my other group members and also know mainly all the kids in the community. In the afternoon we enjoy playing in the cancha, or soccer field. It is funny because most of the town is related (there are like 15 families). Also, there is only 1 public bathroom but luckily it is close to my house. Anyway, I just wanted to let you know I am having a great time in Sorata and I will continue to update you as best I can. Chao!

Day 20 Sep 26 (Apolobamba day 2)

Woke up to cook; it was really cold! Becky, Annie and I made oatmeal with bananas, and a fruit salad. I packed up the tent and my backpack and had a group meeting before we started hiking again. During the meetings we usually stretch and go over roles for the day. It was a gorgeous sunny day and started to warm up. We started the trek up the first pass leaving the big snow capped mountains behind us. After about an hour we made it to the top. Crister, Chris and I hiked up the mountain a little more to get a better view of the glaciers and lake ahead of us. When we got back down our guide gave us some history on the mountain and trail we were on. A lot of Incas traveled back and forth on the path in order to trade with different towns. There was also a big rock pile on the pass that our guide said was a tributary to Pacha Mama for good travels had had been there for many years. We started to trek down: going down isn’t as much fun as you would think. My shoes slid and my knees bothered me a little. Luckily, the view was gorgeous. Below us was a valley with a crystal blue snaking river. Once we got to the bottom we had a water break near the river; llamas surrounded us. We trekked for about 2 more hours until we got to a town and had lunch. Right when we sat down for lunch it started raining/hailing; it was so cold. I had a peanut butter and banana sandwich and a Salome, cheese, mustard, and avocado sandwich. After lunch it was still pretty cold and rainy. We hiked for another 3 hours before we came to our campsite. I set up the tent and cooked quinua soup for dinner with Becky, Maro and Annie’s help. After dinner we went over roles for tomorrow and played this game where the group set up a fantasy dream for me and I had to ask yes or no questions to figure it out. My dream was really funny. After Helen gave us amazing chocolate for dessert. Bed.